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Kolumbova džÃnová loÄ
PrvopoÄátky džÃnů máme spojeny s Divokým Západem konce 19. stoletÃ, ale jejich koÅeny sahajà mnohem dále. Tkaninu, ze které se vyrábÄly, znali už ve stÅedovÄku. Prý z nà mÄla plachty i Kolumbova loÄ Santa Maria. Tato pevná látka z bavlny, pozdÄji nazývaná denim (podle francouzského mÄsta Nîmes ), se barvila indigem na modro. Pojmenovánà nejoblÃbenÄjÅ¡Ãch kalhot 20. stoletà se pak odvozuje od italského pÅÃstavu Janov (francouzsky Gênes, odtud jeans). Tamnà prostà lidé nosili již v 17. stoletà odÄvy z denimu, jak dokládajà obrazy umÄlce nazývaného Mistr modrých džÃnů.
Nesmrtelné levisky
SvÄtový fenoménby se jen tÄžko zrodil, nebýt obchodnÃka s látkami Leviho Strausse a jejich odbÄratele Jacoba Davise. Ten zaÄal Å¡Ãt pracovnà kalhoty s kapsami zesÃlenými cvoÄky. Oba muži si nechali v roce 1873 nápad patentovat a zrodila se znaÄka působÃcà dodnes. Nový kus odÄvu si hned zÃskal oblibu pro svou praktiÄnost, odolnost a cenovou dostupnost-stál jen 1 dolar. Byl to ovÅ¡em odÄv pro pracujÃcà vrstvy, žádný muž z lepÅ¡Ã spoleÄnosti by si jej neoblékl. Brzy zaÄaly džÃny vyrábÄt i dalÅ¡Ã spoleÄnosti.
Jak neženské!
V průbÄhu 20. stoletà pronikly džÃny i do Å¡atnÃku pracujÃcÃch žen. Od mužské varianty se liÅ¡ily zapÃnánÃm na boku. Mnozà ale považovali dámské džÃnové kalhoty za nevhodné. Americká návrháÅka Anne Fogarty hlásala, že „pokud si chce žena udržet svého manžela, nikdy by nemÄla nosit džÃny.“
Rebelové
V 50. letech pÅijÃmajà džÃny za svou „uniformu revolty“ teenageÅi. Vzorem jim byly filmové hvÄzdy typu Jamese Deana. PrvnÄ v historii nehledÄla móda na národnostnÃ, majetkové a genderové rozdÃly. Ani v dalÅ¡Ãch desetiletÃch neztratily džÃny na popularitÄ. StÅih s nohavicemi do zvonu stal jednÃm ze symbolu hippies a od let sedmdesátých se džÃny nosily masovÄ. V 80. letech frÄely mrkváÄe a umÄle roztrhaný a plesnivý vzhled.
Nejsou rifle jako džÃny
V socialistických zemÃch noÅ¡enà džÃnů vyjadÅovalo rovnÄž ideologický protest. Oficiálnà propaganda je coby západnà produkt neschvalovala. V SSSR byli z kÅ¡eftovánà s džÃny obvinÄni Ian Rokotov a Vladislav FaibiÅ¡enko, což je spolu s dalÅ¡Ãmi „pÅeÄiny“ dovedlo až na popraviÅ¡tÄ. Na konci Å¡edesátých let se i v Äeskoslovensku zaÄaly vyrábÄt napodobeniny džÃnů. ÅÃkalo se jim texasky nebo rifle. Å ily se z montérkoviny Äi z rypsu a do opravdových džÃnů mÄly daleko. Majitelé si je alespoÅ vylepÅ¡ovali nášivkami a cvoÄky. PlÃsÅáÄe se podomácku vyrábÄly za pomoci Sava. Originálnà džÃny ménÄ známých znaÄek bylo možno sehnat v Tuzexu. Nebo je propaÅ¡ovat z ciziny. Až od roku 1983 se v ÄSSR zaÄaly Å¡Ãt džÃny Lee Cooper.
Fenomén
Dnes si můžeme vybrat z ohromného množstvà znaÄek a stÅihů. Klasika je vÅ¡ak klasika. Dokládá to i fakt, že se již pÅes sto let úspÄÅ¡nÄ prodává Strausseho model levisek 501, charakteristický poklopcem na knoflÃky.
KALHOTY, KTERÃ SJEDNOTILY SVÄT
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